Nov 2023 - Madhya Pradesh diaries

This Nov 2023 Diwali, my family (of 7) took a vacation touring the state of Madhya Pradesh.

 

Madhya Pradesh is known as the “Heart of India” because of the variety of things it has to offer. It has been home to cultural and spiritual heritage of almost all the religions. Innumerable monuments, intricately carved temples, stupas, forts and palaces are dotted all over the State. There are many national parks & wildlife sanctuaries too - MP leads the country for its tiger population.

 

As per the map below, the places we visited (by road) were-

Gwalior -> Jhansi -> Orchha ->Khajuraho -> Panna -> Jabalpur -> Bhopal -> Ujjain -> Indore

 

Jhansi is technically in Uttar Pradesh. Also, we visited Sanchi & Bhimbetka - 2 UNESCO heritage sites, close to Bhopal. We had to drop Bandhavgarh & Panchmarhi as they require separate trips to do full justice to them and we could not really afford the added time in the itinerary of 6 busy working and schooling parties.

 

As can be seen from the map, MP borders with the states of Gujarat, Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Chhattisgarh and Maharashtra. There are traces of cultures from all these places found at different places within MP.

 

My first impression –

MP is truly vast, as could be seen from the distances we had to travel. When our flight landed at Gwalior airport, only sprawling farmlands and open spaces were seen from above. Throughout MP, there are hardly any tall buildings visible anywhere, and the roads look quite clean. Even the public restrooms on highways, as well as the tourist attractions, were odorless and had running water. The weather was pleasant during the day and got bit chilly in early mornings and evenings. The sun sets bit earlier than in Pune. Also, the weather was usually bit cloudy, the heat was never too intense during the day.

 

Gwalior :

Day 1 was travel plus sightseeing at Gwalior. We were met by our guide at the airport.

After a lunch stop, we immediately set off for the Gwalior fort so as not to miss the daylight for sightseeing for the day. Gwalior Fort, situated on top of a hill, finds its place among the best fortresses of India. It is also considered to be one of the most impenetrable forts in the country. Gwalior Fort is believed to be over a thousand years old. It is strategically located on a steep sandstone hill, which provides a natural defence advantage. The fort showcases a unique amalgam of architectural styles, including Rajput, Mughal, and Hindu. This blend of styles is a proof to the various dynasties that ruled the region. 

 

Jai Vilas Mahal, the palace of Gwalior, is a fine example of European architecture. It was founded by Jayaji Rao Scindia, designed and built by Lt. Col. Sir Michael Filose. The palace is a combination of the architectural style of the Mughals and the Medici - the first storey is Tuscan, the second Italian-Doric and the third Corinthian.

The palace serves as a residence for the descendants of the Scindia family. It also serves as a museum stretched over 35 rooms, houses the Chitrangada Raje Art Gallery and a library that comprises more than 5,000 books. Each  room in the regal palace contains curios of historical importance, including a collection of swords that date back to the times of Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb, and the original Dhal (shield) that belonged to freedom fighter Rani Laxmibai.

 

Scindia (originally Shinde), the Maratha ruling family of Gwalior, dominated the politics of northern India in the 18^th century. The dynasty was founded by Ranoji Scindia. By his death in 1750, Ranoji had established his capital at Ujjain. Eventually, the Scindia capital moved to Gwalior. The greatest of Ranoji’s successors was Mahadji Scindia, who created a north Indian empire virtually independent of the peshwa. He emerged from war with the British East India Company as the recognized ruler of north-western India, and was named as the Supreme Commander of India (that’s when the original name Shinde became SCindia - I am a little skeptical of this theory, though).

 The map shows the extent of the Maratha Empire during 18^th century. The Maratha Empire reigned from the late 17th to the early 20th century. At its peak, it covered much of the area south of Afghanistan, Pakistan and east of India, also known as South Asia. After being checked by Britain’s East India Company in the Third Anglo-Maratha War, it started declining and somehow lost an impactful mention in Indian history. The picture below depicts the Scindia family crest, a combination of the British horse insignia as well as snake emblem of Scindia family. Legend behind snake emblem is that a cobra protected Mahadji Scindia, by shading the baby from the sun with its hood. An astrologer thereafter fortold that he was destined for greatness which came to be true.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last stop on Day1 was the Saas-bahu temple, a shortened version of the original name "Sahastrabaahu temple". The entire temple is covered with carvings, notably 4 idols of Brahma, Vishnu and Saraswati above its entrance door. History has it that Rani Laxmibai escaped from the Britishers from Jhansi to Gwalior, and jumped from here after realizing that the King of Gwalior(her cousin) has betrayed her. We finally checked into our lovely resort around 8pm and relaxed there until breakfast the next day.

Jhansi, Orchha : 

Day 2 was a long one – our MP road trip officially commenced from here. We headed toward Khajuraho and passed Jhansi and Orchha along the way. First, we visited the historical Jhansi fort – very well covered indeed, by our local guide. He brought out the contrast between the valor of Laxmibai, the widow-queen, vis-a-vis the Jauhar of Rajasthan queens. We then visited 2 temples in Orchha : Shri Ramraja mandir and the Lakshmi Narayan temple (famous for paintings on its ceiling). Orchha is renowned for the classic mural paintings, frescos and Chhatris (cenotaphs) that were constructed to commemorate the Bundela rulers.  

We reached Khajuraho after sundown.

Panna :

On Day 3, we set off for the safari at Panna Tiger Reserve very early in the morning. Panna is roughly an hour's drive from Khajuraho, so some additional time got added for the commute back and forth. The woods are vast and lovely; it was a treat to watch the forest come to life with the rise of the sun! Though we failed to sight any of the big cats, we did witness many deer species, monkeys, elephants as well as the tiger, leopard and hyena footprints in the forest. Despite our acute disappointment we joked and laughed sportingly while consuming our packed breakfast.

 

Khajuraho :

Back to the hotel, we bathed, changed and set off to witness the grandeur of the UNESCO world heritage site of the Khajuraho temples.

 

 

The temples are truly breathtakingly sculpted and the detailing is mind-blowing. They are not functional temples, however, and we even saw bats inhabiting some. Got to hand it to our guide, who was super sincere; he did not leave any of the details out. Some new things I learned from him - 

 

These world-famous temples were built during the Chandela dynasty, most temples were constructed between 950 and 1050 AD during the reigns of Hindu Kings Yasovarman and Dhanga. Of the 85 (Hindu & Jain) temples, only 22 survive today. Most were destroyed by Muslim invaders. Thanks to Captain T.S. Burt (a Britisher) who ‘re-discovered’ and introduced these temples to the world in 1838.

 

Apparently, the sculptures were installed in temples to lure men back to a life of marital bliss, from one of monkhood, that had become prevalent with the advent of Buddhism.

 

Jabalpur :

On Day 4, we commuted from Khajuraho to Jabalpur and arrived the our hotel in evening. The evening Aarti at Gwarighat of the Narmada River is a treat to watch for its spiritual experience. It is like the more famous Ganga Aarti of Haridwar & Varanasi. The Ghat has been renovated and is surprisingly quite clean. One can enjoy a short boat ride to watch the ceremony from front and offer diyas into the river. Since it was Diwali night, it was not crowded at all, nor did the river smell. The overall experience felt soulful!

 

 

Day 5 covered ropeway to Dhuandhar falls, and boating at Bhedaghat, before proceeding to the city of lakes – Bhopal. 

 

Dhuandhar water fall and marble rocks are the major tourist attractions in Jabalpur. The fall is formed by the booming Narmada river on its way to the deep gorge of marble rock. The panoramic view of the fall from cable car is really magnificent. Bhedaghat is famous for the high marble rocks making a valley through which the river Narmada flows. Hindi movies : Asoka and Mohenjodaro, were shot here. The local guide spoke in a sing-song tone, with rhyming last words in alternate lines in his monologue.

 

Bhopal :

Day 6 & 7 were spent in Bhopal. On first day we covered 2 more UNESCO world heritage sites : Bhimbetka rock shelters & Sanchi stupa.

The Bhimbetka rock shelters are an archaeological site that spans the Palaeolithic and Mesolithic periods. It exhibits the earliest traces of human life in India and evidence of the Stone Age starting at the site in Acheulian times. Some of the caves feature prehistoric paintings - the earliest are dated to 10,000 BCE.

The Great Stupa at Sanchi has been the focal point of the Buddhist faith in the region. The inception of Sanchi as a sacred centre is attributed to the Mauryan emperor Aśoka. His reign in 3rd century BCE was instrumental to the spread of Buddhism throughout the Indian subcontinent. Depicting Buddha through symbols, the sculpted art shows the evolution in sculpting techniques and the elaboration of icons, especially depicting Buddha. Also, the kids got to learn of the Maurya dynasty, the wily Chanakya and Asoka's disillusionment with war that led him to seek solace in Buddhism.

 

Day 6 evening was spent in shopping around New Market. On Day 7, we covered the famous Upper lake, followed by visit to Tribal museum. Spanning 7 acres, the museum is an ode to the lives, art, aesthetics, and philosophies of various tribes who constitute 30% of MP population. Through the fusion of materials, lighting, imagery, mythography, and traditional modernism, Tribal Museum at Bhopal reimagines the spatiality of museums.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ujjain : We reached Ujjain on evening of Day 7. Immediately, we took off for the darshan at Mahakaaleshwar temple and witnessed the light show. This is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas and is inevitably crowded. Ujjain is one out of seven salvation-providing cities. It is famous for Gadhkalika and Harsiddhi, the two Shakti Peeths, and sacred Kumbh mela that takes place in four cities of India. The cave of king Bhartari is found here, and it is believed that Ujjain has footprints of God Vishnu. On Day 8, we visited Ramghat, Har Siddhi Mata mandir and Saandipani Rishi ashram, where Lord Krishna & his childhood friend, Sudama, completed their education. Some members of our party painstakingly read about each of the 64 art forms taught at the Gurukul. 

 

Finally, we proceeded to our last destination – Indore.

 

Indore :

Day 8 & 9 were spent in Indore. On the first day, we checked into a very posh hotel, regrouped from our travels so we could do some serious shopping and snacking! After shopping for Maheshwari & Chanderi saris at the cloth market near Rajwada, we were eager to sample the goodies at Saraafa bazaar. Since Diwali had ended by then, the crowd in this narrow lane was nothing short of scary. Yet we managed to taste quite a few famous dishes, while balancing the various shopping bags and hardly any place to sit! The fatigue of last many days had finally caught up with us. The next morning, after relaxing bit more than usual, we finally set out on the last day of sight-seeing to the Rajwada and Kaanch mandir. Lacking the energy for any other places viz. Mandu fort or Maheshwar, we directly headed for lunch at 56 Dukaan, after which we chilled at the Treasure Island mall until we had to depart for our flight to Pune.

Some of the mouth-watering snacks that we enjoyed at Indore :

Bhutte ka kees

Khopra patties

Joshi dahi bada

Garaadu

Jaamun shots

Shikanji

Pani puri, Aloo tikki

Coconut crush

Shaahi Falooda & kulfi

Closing note-

And so ended our super happening trip around MP. I had not heard of MP beyond the jungles that house tigers as well as dacoits (by which so many Hindi movies were inspired), and of the Bhopal gas tragedy. I discovered so much more! Though there wasn’t any of the usual excitement for kids, they thrived in the quality time with family. We learned so much about the history of India right from 10,000 BC till the 18^th century! The road trip via our tempo traveler was smooth; we enjoyed listening to songs, world cup cricket as well as some repartee during the journeys. Keeping pace with teenagers as well as senior citizen, looking out for each other, being without our office laptops, absorbing the landscapes from the bus- window, are some of the things that stand out in making this trip truly memorable.

It was good to have a flexible itinerary where we could include some things that we heard of later on and excluded some too. Leaving the shopping and food for the end turned out to be a good decision as we were too exhausted by then; our dipping energy as well as jaded senses were rejuvenated with yummy food as well as retail therapy. Bhopal & Gwalior stand out for me for the variety and historical significance, but every place had something novel to offer and lovely memories. Jabalpur was a surprise indeed; the mighty Narmada flowing through the valley of marble rocks is a magnificent sight. Indore felt very like my hometown, Baroda, albeit a bigger, and cleaner, avatar.

 

There is a sense of accomplishment whenever a task is completed satisfactorily. Especially, if its been in the works for months! That's the feeling we are all experiencing currently.